I went to Puzata Xata, the cheap
Ukrainian buffet. It was a great place to visit, since the food was
almost always tasty, ethnic, cheap and the interiors made it look as
though I were eating somewhere fancy. Not to mention, the sheer
quantity of beautiful Ukrainian women that lingered around tables,
eating sausages and cakes – that certainly was not a negative. On
Tuesday nights, an English club meets at the Puzata Xata at
Kontraktova Square, attracting a large variety of Ukrainians and
native English speakers who want to practice their English. I had
gone with Daria one week, who noted that all the American and British
men in attendance were mostly LBHs, or Losers Back Home. I couldn't
help to agree. I had met a couple of LBHs before – many of them
had come to Ukraine, feeling as poor and miserable and unwanted
people in the US and enjoyed the popularity they received being
English practice tools.
I met one near 50 year old guy who had published his own poetry book and carried it around to show off to young 18 year old Ukrainian girls. “I'm a published poet,” he'd tell them, showing them his book. I was with another Ukrainian guy who was running a hostel then. The younger Ukrainian said, “Oh, I didn't know you were a poet.”
“What do you think I do? I'm a poet. Obviously. I can't believe you didn't know. How could you not know?” the guy said. He was skinny with a mustache and beard and wore a cardigan, but not in a slightly “I'm cool because I do my own thing way” but rather in a “I'm a douchebag” way. It was clear he was a LBH. He kept talking to the girl saying, “Do you like any American authors? Oh, I'm a literature professor. Hemingway is so awful, the way he writes women is miserable. They're just not strong characters, they're so dainty.”
“But man,” I interrupted. “Femininity in the 20s was centered around daintiness, especially in Spain and Italy. And when you couple that with a culture that promotes women's virginity and innocence, that's what you get. I met many Georgian girls who act exactly like the characters in his books. I think critics of Hemingway in this regard often just don't understand the culture that he was writing from.”
“No, you just don't understand a weak writer.”
“You can call him weak all you want, but he at least didn't have to publish his own books.” I didn't know why I was protecting Hemingway, but if someone was going to critique him, it should have been on something more substantial than a bogus textbook feminist argument.
The LBHs were everywhere that teaching English was involved, mainly for that reason. Occasionally you met an English teacher who had a genuine interest in Slavic and Eastern European culture, but it was the exception and not the rule. Most had come to Ukraine to score with girls who would have been far above them on the ladder scale had they stayed back in the United States. That was the same comment that Daria was making. “You seem to be the only normal guy I've met from the States,” she said.
“I'm really not a good standard of normality,” I told her. “Did I mention, I play accordion?”
Also at Puzata Xata, on Monday nights, is Russian language club. Since I need all the practice I can get, I decided to go. Chris wanted in on the practicing action, though truly I know he was going for \ulterior motives. Granted, if I got some hot Ukrainian tail due to my love of Russian language, I wouldn't be against it. But that wasn't the primo uno reason I was going. And, just my luck, it was all Frenchmen at my table who barely had a Russian skill and one Ukrainian girl, who spoke at a level only just above my own.
About thirty minutes into the club, I got a call. “Shawn, can you come to the school?” Tanya, my new boss, asked. “I have a class for you to substitute.”
“I'm a bit far now, in Podil, it will take me some 40 minutes to get there, at least.”
“That's okay, just come as soon as you can.”
I got up from the table and went over to Chris. “Hey man, I got to go,” I told him.
“Where are you going?” he said, looking something like a lost child. It was clear he wanted to come with me.
“To work!” I said, leaving him confused. I raced out of the Puzata Xata towards the metro. When I arrived at the school, Tanya led me to the class. During class, I felt I was back in my natural state. My new students encompassed everything I had liked about teaching English back in Georgia. They were all friendly, playful and excited to learn – thus saving me from all the aspects of teaching in Georgia that I hated. When I finished cleaning the classroom, Tanya came to me. “Listen, you will be the new permanent teacher for this class, okay? It will be 200 grivna a session. You have an envelope from Valya?” Valya was the mother of the two year old I had tried to teach that morning.
“Yes, here it is.” I handed Tanya the envelope.
Tanya tour it open and took some cash out. “Here, this is for you,” she said, handing me 200 grivna. “I'll see you next Monday? And if you want to attend anyone else's classes, you are welcome.”
“Thanks,” I said. I had a new class to prepare for. I left, wanting to celebrate with someone somewhere, but couldn't, since I didn't want to ride 30 minutes on the metro back into town and more importantly, since I didn't want to spend much money. Instead I just went to the store and picked up a beer, so I could drink it watching a movie back at home.
I met one near 50 year old guy who had published his own poetry book and carried it around to show off to young 18 year old Ukrainian girls. “I'm a published poet,” he'd tell them, showing them his book. I was with another Ukrainian guy who was running a hostel then. The younger Ukrainian said, “Oh, I didn't know you were a poet.”
“What do you think I do? I'm a poet. Obviously. I can't believe you didn't know. How could you not know?” the guy said. He was skinny with a mustache and beard and wore a cardigan, but not in a slightly “I'm cool because I do my own thing way” but rather in a “I'm a douchebag” way. It was clear he was a LBH. He kept talking to the girl saying, “Do you like any American authors? Oh, I'm a literature professor. Hemingway is so awful, the way he writes women is miserable. They're just not strong characters, they're so dainty.”
“But man,” I interrupted. “Femininity in the 20s was centered around daintiness, especially in Spain and Italy. And when you couple that with a culture that promotes women's virginity and innocence, that's what you get. I met many Georgian girls who act exactly like the characters in his books. I think critics of Hemingway in this regard often just don't understand the culture that he was writing from.”
“No, you just don't understand a weak writer.”
“You can call him weak all you want, but he at least didn't have to publish his own books.” I didn't know why I was protecting Hemingway, but if someone was going to critique him, it should have been on something more substantial than a bogus textbook feminist argument.
The LBHs were everywhere that teaching English was involved, mainly for that reason. Occasionally you met an English teacher who had a genuine interest in Slavic and Eastern European culture, but it was the exception and not the rule. Most had come to Ukraine to score with girls who would have been far above them on the ladder scale had they stayed back in the United States. That was the same comment that Daria was making. “You seem to be the only normal guy I've met from the States,” she said.
“I'm really not a good standard of normality,” I told her. “Did I mention, I play accordion?”
Also at Puzata Xata, on Monday nights, is Russian language club. Since I need all the practice I can get, I decided to go. Chris wanted in on the practicing action, though truly I know he was going for \ulterior motives. Granted, if I got some hot Ukrainian tail due to my love of Russian language, I wouldn't be against it. But that wasn't the primo uno reason I was going. And, just my luck, it was all Frenchmen at my table who barely had a Russian skill and one Ukrainian girl, who spoke at a level only just above my own.
About thirty minutes into the club, I got a call. “Shawn, can you come to the school?” Tanya, my new boss, asked. “I have a class for you to substitute.”
“I'm a bit far now, in Podil, it will take me some 40 minutes to get there, at least.”
“That's okay, just come as soon as you can.”
I got up from the table and went over to Chris. “Hey man, I got to go,” I told him.
“Where are you going?” he said, looking something like a lost child. It was clear he wanted to come with me.
“To work!” I said, leaving him confused. I raced out of the Puzata Xata towards the metro. When I arrived at the school, Tanya led me to the class. During class, I felt I was back in my natural state. My new students encompassed everything I had liked about teaching English back in Georgia. They were all friendly, playful and excited to learn – thus saving me from all the aspects of teaching in Georgia that I hated. When I finished cleaning the classroom, Tanya came to me. “Listen, you will be the new permanent teacher for this class, okay? It will be 200 grivna a session. You have an envelope from Valya?” Valya was the mother of the two year old I had tried to teach that morning.
“Yes, here it is.” I handed Tanya the envelope.
Tanya tour it open and took some cash out. “Here, this is for you,” she said, handing me 200 grivna. “I'll see you next Monday? And if you want to attend anyone else's classes, you are welcome.”
“Thanks,” I said. I had a new class to prepare for. I left, wanting to celebrate with someone somewhere, but couldn't, since I didn't want to ride 30 minutes on the metro back into town and more importantly, since I didn't want to spend much money. Instead I just went to the store and picked up a beer, so I could drink it watching a movie back at home.
awesome. if i have some extra cash i'm gonna come visit-andy perdue (with inga of course. i'm NOT a LBH ;)
ReplyDeleteMost of the TLGers are LBHs, I feel.
DeleteHi Shawn - great post, I'm going to put LBH to good use! Now if you could help me out with a handy new acronym for "a person you don't actually like that much, but because you're alone in a foreign country, they've become your best buddy"
ReplyDeleteI know that kind of person too, but never thought of a word from it. A "friend of convenience", I suppose...
DeleteI'm going to work on this one - might be a blog post in it!
DeleteShawn, you’re truly great. So to the point, honest and intelligent observations and descriptions. I know you are writing. Please write a book a book and I will swear to have it translated and published in Georgia. I’m optimistic because Georgians like Ukrainians it seems have a great ability to see through the LBH façade and judge the person for what he actually is. I don’t mean that it is not necessarily bad to not being successful or poor back in the states (if you have a brain and some character) but when you think that you can climb some levels in the colony’s hierarchy because you can speak English (your mother tongue) and become angry when this does not happen it is really annoying. Then cursing the native brutes for everything that is not what you think it should be and it was at your college, than it’s really hopeless.
ReplyDelete/Benjamin
The book is on the way. After I finish up my travels, whether the end is in Ukraine, Russia or back in the US, I'll take down all these blogs and tie them into a coherent travel story.
ReplyDeleteYeah, I generally can't stand the LBHs. But unfortunately, there are a LOT of natives who can't see through the facade. Some can, some can't. I'm not knocking being an English teacher (of which I've found myself to be), but I think when you're in another country, even as an English teacher, you've got to learn some things about the native culture. I've even taken to picking up some Ukrainian myself, though I'm here to master Russian (granted, Ukrainians in Kiev - and East - seem to prefer Russian anyway).
Anyways, thanks for reading and commenting!
I totally agree that my argumentation might have came thru as if the Americans invented the colonialism and of course it’s the Europeans that are far worst sinners here but Arabs. Persians and Chinese are not so bad colonizers themselves either. Not to talk of the black people that chased away, took their land and killed most of the Bushmen. The reason why Americans became the colonizers in my text I guess is that I wanted to kick the arse where it hurt the most since he is that kind of person that ‘help the poor’ but certainly from a higher almost colonial position while constantly preaching his college drivel like it was higher wisdom when it was at best advanced high-school misunderstandings. He sits in Vake and cries that he has no internet connection. That Georgian women are not allowed to smoke in the street and other strange observations. I guess it’s like going to Atlanta and finding no coke and arguing that blacks are not allowed to walk without guardians.
DeleteIn the end he called himself a republican, yeah like Mike Tyson could pass as Joey Ramone. Every statement of from him is how bad and vile the rednecks are in the southern states and in Georgia. There is not one inch of republican in him but only the worst of smug born-again democrats looking down at other people who live other kinds of lives or have other opinions or traditions. This based on their queer-science and campus experience. In a late south park episode called 'Island of misfit mascots' they had a special island for people like this. There was a sexual harassment panda reminding of the LBH teacher. Take a look here: http://www.southparkstudios.com/clips/103403/the-island-of-misfit-mascots
About America I can just say that I more or less love the country even though ‘original’ food and drinks is not always my all time favourites. How can it be if there exists Italy, Georgia, China, India and France. But real bagels are great and coleslaw to grilled ribs is great. Then you follow the English strategy. Have as hopeless food you can so every other culture come in and take over with some of the best there is I guess. I think I would love some Louisiana style food but have never tried. And there are also those burgers that can be quite ok with a coke. KFC have some merit too.
And I agree teachers can be ok even who teach English in Georgia (or Ukraine). We are all individuals but it seems like some of the most loudmouthed self-satisfied ignorant spoilt teenager on spring break mode came to Georgia. They are hopelessly bad, have no intellectual pretentions but just behave bad and wining for everything that is not like at home. This other guy telling Georgian how to have sex, how to talk, walk and think when he himself could not talk, walk or think. And what’s worth he could not even understand the basics here.
Trying to adapt a little and respect who live here, when in Rome do as the Romans etc. I don’t ask for that TLG people should be linguistic phantoms or well read cultural analytics who do anthropological fieldwork. Just as you said, just relax and behave as a good guy or girl. Trying to be a little human more than American of the ignorant self-satisfied tradition. It’s a great possibility to really learn something here that never could have learned at home. By the way I think you would be a great English teacher since you seem have a curiosity and respect for people and cultures you meet. When sometimes questioning or mocking them you do it with a cheerful heart and/or good grounds.
Can’t you break out some piece of your longer story that would/could be working-titled ‘Americans in Georgia’ and not only to complain of course but give an honest, humoristic and drastic picture of how you felt about it.
Yeah, I've met plenty of the type, and not just in Georgia, they're all over. But, at least, they're willing to travel and experience some of a new culture and it will undoubtedly be a growing experience for them. Now if they're 40 and still being idiots... well, that's a different story.
DeleteAs for food... we might not invent good food, but we know how to make it better. That's all I'll say. Or make it in such a completely-unrecognizable-from-the-original fashion that it's now American. Like our Chinese food.