Nuremberg has an unfortunate history which could certainly and unfortunately mar its future. More than any other city in all of Germany, it suffers from the curse of the Nazis. For the entire time of the reign of the Nazi regime, Nuremberg was the center of the Party's power, and for this reason Hitler had Albert Speer design his gigantic Olympic-sized festival grounds made specifically for Nazi party rallies. When you Google “Nazi party rally” that’s what you’ll see – monumental sized concrete monoliths, stages, and flag holders, all built just outside of the city of Nuremberg. Of course, that all lies in rubble now, the weeds and wild flowers having long since defeated the once fertile grounds of white supremacy and racism, driving out the floating dandelion seeds to different grounds and across different seas. It's a vast and somewhat beautiful park now, and parts of the rubble are even being used for rock concerts.
Nuremberg had suffered a terrible fate in World War II, like Dresden it was scourged and raked; had the days been those of the Romans, the fields would have been sewn with salt. All that was left after the Allied bombing campaign was a smoldering castle on a hill, missing much of its palace, and the coals of a once bustling medieval city-scape, only the occasional charred church spire rising from the smoke, the carbon coiling around the Gothic buttresses and spiky peaks.
The roofs of Nuremberg
The first time I had visited Nuremberg I was with my wife. I had decided to save all the “Nazi sights” for when my parents were there – the parade grounds which now serve as a coliseum for rock concerts and a gigantic park, filled with joggers, sunbathers, and twenty somethings playing frisbee with their dogs – and of course, the Palace of Justice which served as the home of the Nuremberg trials. There’s also a museum of a dungeon that was used to hold stolen art pieces, protecting them from the rain of fire from overhead. We were there for the Christkindlemarket though, which was hardly the right spirit for the Nazi tour anyway. When my parents came, we still didn’t have time for the Nazi tour, as it was only a stop of a few hours. My attempts at pleasing my inner Nazi kept Hitfailering though, since we had found a different reason to visit Nuremberg: the old town festival. I might add that I don't have an inner Nazi, it's just some wry history nut's humor there, dearest NSA reader.