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mtatsminda tbilisi

Mtatsminda, or Holy Mountain, is now still a revered place, being the home of the Georgian pantheon, but its also got a huge theme park on the top of it. From Tbilisi, you can only see the funicular and a large building that looks something like the Greek parthenon, but what you can’t see is the series of motley amusement park rides that are loosely to the theme of Georgian buildings and cartoons. I say only loosely because it seems to be clear that they tend to get distracted from the theme and things get random, from bumblebees to Roman esplanades.

A theme of sorts

The entrance to Mtatsminda has a nice avenue of Georgian oriented buildings, with the one exception of a giant Avatar figure guarding the entrance, but everything else has the faux traditional quality that has made Six Flags in the US famous.

mtatsminda theme park entrance

Not sure of the theme, but it looks fun!

Georgian fun house

Some fun Georgian balconies

That’s where most of the theme detail is though, as the rest of the park spins out across the hillside in a seemingly random array, much in the same way Georgians seem to approach city planning. No big deal, sometimes theme parks can be a bit too much theme, and this is far from one that takes itself seriously.

There’s a reason for that too. It was started in the 1930s by the Soviet government as just some bland Commie amusement park, and soon became the third most popular park in the USSR (probably because of the cheap wine and great views).

log ride mtatsminda

the rides are a splash!

What to do there

As there is no entrance fee, the park is open to just wander around in and enjoy the sights. Cafes are dispersed all throughout, and some of the cafes have pristine gardens that offer tremendous views of the city or hills, depending on which side you’re facing.

ferris wheel

fun fact: that Ferris wheel takes 12 minutes to go around

Most people seem to be just wandering around and enjoying the benches, often with their own bottles of wine.

The rides are a bit pricey for the local population. When we were there, the rollercoaster, for example, which was sitting on top of what appeared to be an unfinished construction site, was on sale for 15 lari a 30 second ride. The average salary of a Georgian is about 700 lari, so do the math on how many people are going to be lining up. That said, for the average Westerner, 15 laris is 7 dollars which… actually still sounds expensive for a rollercoaster ride. But then again, at a festival rather than a theme park, I guess it’s normal to drop that much on a ride. So imagine Mtatsminda as a permanent festival.

Mtatsminda roller coaster

7 bucks and one loop? I can't even lose my lunch on that!

If you’ve got kids, it’s definitely one of the best spots to go to in Tbilisi. If you don’t have kids, it’s worth a visit for the view. Bring your own bottle of wine or sit back for an overpriced beer to get the most of your visit.

mtatsminda ride

kids love giant bees

view from Mtatsminda

did I mention the views?

How to get to Mtatsminda

The best way up is via the funicular, but our lazy bums didn’t want to walk up the steep hill to Kakabadze St. to get there. At Freedom Square there’s a tourist desk, so we asked if there was an easier way to the funicular. “Bus 124 over at Leonidze Street” was the answer. So we crossed the square and waited on Leonidze street. At last our bus came: a decrepit old yellow bus packed full of people. It was a local route bus, meaning that most of the people on it probably couldn’t have cared less about going to the theme park, but rather were just trying to get to their homes and, as the truth is on that mountainous route, their dachas. Short story: the 124 does not go to the funicular, but to the entry of the park itself.

view of old town Tbilisi

imagine the cliff you've got to scale for this view, now imagine a Tbilisi bus

Route 124 winds up and down, back and forth, ever-so-slowly snaking up its way on the mountainside. If you didn’t get the feeling that the bus would topple over the cliff at any moment, it would have been quite a pleasant ride, but as it was, it was far more thrilling than any of the rides offered at the park. And this for less than 50 cents! It’s certainly full of gorgeous views, but concerning the comfort and fear factor, and that the route takes nearly 45 minutes, it’s probably best to take the funicular, which has all the view and fear and only takes 5 minutes.

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The bus lets you out at the entrance, where there doesn't seem to be a parking lot. Most of the parking snakes down the side of the road, which itself is hanging off the cliff. The parking goes for about a mile and there's no sidewalk, so that must be a fun walk.

There are apparently no buses that go to the funicular. There are little suicide shuttles, called “marshrutkas”, that race up and down. From Freedom Square, you can flag down the 67, the 4, or the 131. Watch yourself on the GPS, and when you’re nearing the funicular, shout out, “Puniculartan gaucheret!”

mtatsminda funicular

what it looks like from the outside

Lastly, there are taxis. If you’re coming from Rustaveli, you’ll have to keep rejecting taxi offers until you find a guy willing to do 3 lari. You should pay no more than that. As you're a foreigner, they'll probably keep trying to charge you anywhere from 5 to 10 lari. Don't do it.

When you’re coming off the funicular, there are a queue of taxis that all want anywhere from 5 to 10 lari to get back down to Rustaveli street. Don’t do it! It takes about five minutes to walk down the hill.

The Funicular

Once you’re at the funicular, you’re going to have to pay for it. Find the “salaro”, or cash booth, and fork over 2 lari for a dedicated Mtatsminda card, and then another 3 lari for the ride itself. You can use the same card for the whole group, and the card is good for all the rides on Mtatsminda. I’m not sure if the money you charge on there is refundable, so if you’re planning on spending the day up there, you’d best ask at the cash desk before loading it up.

funicular

"funicular" is European for "cable car", by the way


traveling with kids

This week we're joined by Daniel Sherwin from Dadsolo.com:

 

Traveling with kids can be an adventure, but it can also be stressful if you aren’t prepared. Whether you’re taking a road trip to the next state or heading across the country on a plane, there are several things you can do to make traveling easier on the entire family. Having a well-thought-out plan will ensure that you and your loved ones don’t suffer from stress or anxiety, even when something doesn’t work out as planned (and something always does).

Packing well, thinking about everyone’s comfort level, and making sure the kids have entertainment and snacks will go a long way toward helping you stay calm, which can boost your mental health and help you enjoy the trip. While no one can see into the future, thinking ahead will be an enormous benefit. Do some research to figure out the route you’ll be taking, plan your stops or layovers, and remember to give yourself extra time to get things done.

Keep reading for some great tips on how to make traveling with kids easier.

Photo via Pixabay by StockSnap

Pack Smart

Half of the success of any trip is due to how well you pack. Road trips require entertainment for little ones, snacks, a good first aid kit, and emergency supplies in case of an accident. Depending on the weather forecast and time of year that you’ll be traveling, you might want road flares, a jug of water, blankets, and a tire-changing kit in the trunk. Invest in a car charger for your phone if you don’t already have one. If you have more than one child, pack a small backpack for each one full of things to keep them entertained; not only will this help them pass the hours on the road, but it will also keep them from arguing about whose is whose.

Don’t Forget to Eat

One of the biggest mistakes many travelers make is forgetting to eat or not stopping to grab a bite because they want to make good time. Traveling with kids makes this nearly impossible, so just go with it. Pack healthy road-friendly snacks such as dried fruit, pb&j sandwiches, wraps, and pre-cut veggies and dip so you can stop at a rest area or park and fill up. When kids -- especially the little ones -- go too long without eating, things can get ugly. Help prevent stress for everyone by planning ahead.

Make Sure the Dog Is Taken Care Of

If you have a pet, making sure he’s well taken care of will prevent worry while you’re away. Consider hiring a pet sitter to stay with him so his safety isn’t an issue. If you decide to bring your pet along on the trip, make sure you also bring his pet bed or blanket, toys, and food dishes so he’ll have something familiar while you’re away.

keep your dog happy

Let Your Teen Have Some Freedom

While traveling will make you more aware of the safety of your children, it’s always a good idea to allow your older kids to have a bit of freedom. When you’re in a secure place -- such as a store, landmark, or museum -- let them move away from you a little and explore on their own. Giving your teen some leeway to have some fun on their own will make the trip special for them.

Traveling with kids of any age can be a challenge, but with a good plan, you can make the process easier on everyone. Talk to your family members about your preparations for the trip so that everyone is on the same page, and remember to stay patient and take your time. Trying to stick to a rigid schedule rarely works when you have young children along with you.

 

About Daniel Sherwin from Dadsolo: Daniel is a single dad raising two children. At DadSolo.com, he aims to provide other single dads with information and resources to help them better equip themselves on the journey that is parenthood.


Venice. The city of canals, of love, of boats, of vast mobs of tourists, the Amsterdam of the South (Amsterdam is the Venice of the North, so why not the other way around?). One begins to wonder when walking the streets if anyone actually lives in or is from the city. Wandering the alleys and the canals, you hear English, Russian, French… almost anything but Italian. The place is now a kind of adult Disneyland, full of museums and art, but devoid of anything resembling modern life. Or so it would seem to the casual observer.

But first, Verona

We were in Venice twice. Once just my wife and myself. We were staying at an Airbnb in Verona, where we got to witness the balcony from which Juliet once opined, “Wherefore art thou Romeo!” The balcony at the House of Capulet was built about 3 centuries after Shakespeare wrote the play, and was actually built specifically for the tourist appeal. Italians already caught on that people were looking for a balcony, so they built them a balcony! And now also a bronze statue, whose tit you rub and you get good luck… it’s quite shiny now you know.

house of capulet juliet verona

the fair golden breasts of Juliet

Verona is definitely a town worth visiting, especially if you can see a concert there. They have a coliseum there too, right in the middle of the scenic and tightly packed old town, where they still hold concerts, festivals, and other performances. Just no Christians getting eaten by lions, unfortunately.

verona

random square in Verona

Verona is actually a great place to stay to visit Venice, if you’re only in for the tourist mobs for one day as we were. We had a long weekend, we were living in Prague, and we wanted to see as much as possible. And when wandering around the Disneyland of the South, we got the picture that one day was fine. The last train left at midnight, and in Italy, the inter-city trains were fairly cheap anyway.

Now for Venice

It was then that we made our discovery that there IS life in Venice outside of 50-man Japanese tour groups, and that life starts up around 11 o’clock at night, when Italians finally are able to shake off their hangover from the night before and start up again (a trend I’ve noticed throughout the peninsula, not just in Venice). The scenic little squares and cozy corners get a second life, as the locals left there come out to do their milling, away from the heat, the sun, and the camera lenses. They bring their plastic cups and fill up their own prosecco, not bothering with the overpriced tourist fare.

a random square in Venice in winter

If you can’t handle tourism there, skip Venice altogether. There is a certain magic to the city, but these days it is a catered magic. They cater to the image of Venice, and in that matter, it’s not that different to the Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas, except that instead of being a tribute to somewhere else, it’s a pure simulacrum of itself. The city gave way to the legend, and now it tries to emulate its own ideal image, whether that’s in pretentious art exhibits or the gondola drivers singing opera.

gondola venice

this guy was not having the sing song

But, despite that, I find myself longing to go back. There are always more museums and more churches to see, more canals to explore. Despite how small the town is, it’s enormously rich, and the different islands offer different atmospheres, from bustling to lazy, with even different foods. I found that restaurants on the main islands were a bit ludicrous (except for pizza, you can always find a decently priced meal in Italy if you’re good with pizza), but then take a boat out to Murano and the prices drop down by half (definitely an island worth seeing and is beautiful in its own regard).

Murano is quite the beaut

The people can be a bit rude. They’re dealing with tourists all day and every day. They know you don’t care about them, and they don’t care about you. I found the same situation in Egypt around the pyramids. It’s Venice and they know everyone is going to come at least once in their life, and they’re not that concerned about repeat visits. Heck, most of the people in the hospitality industry there aren’t even Venetian, so what do they care if you don’t come back? Don’t let that bother you though, as the folk who come out at night are nice enough. But then, also, you can get pretty far in life by being nice to people and smiling.

venice canal

not everywhere is accessible by foot...

Getting to Venice

As I mentioned, the times I visited Venice, I didn’t even stay in Venice. The first time I stayed in Verona, and the second time we stayed in Mestre, the town that’s just on the mainland. The trains go through the night, so it’s not a huge issue commuting, and Mestre itself though quaint, is nice in a more honest fashion, the people already so much friendlier, but it’s modern and you get none of the romance.

You can arrive in Venice by either train, plane, or automobile. There’s an airport that has water shuttle service directly to San Marco. Cool yeah? If you’re going by plane, I recommend that. The shuttle costs 8 euros a person, just look for the signs for “vaporetti” or “Actv”. Otherwise there’s a really long train and auto bridge, and an auto park just on the Venetian side of the bridge where you can park your car for an exorbitant fee. As you can’t really drive around in Venice (surprise!), I’d actually just find a cheaper place to park in Mestre myself... There are day trains and sleeper trains that go into Venice from Vienna, Rome, and Salzburg.

rialto bridge

the famous rialto bridge

We took the sleeper train in once... I recommend against it. It sounds like you'll save a lot of time, but really you just end up kind of beat up, tired, and sort of miserable. Stay the extra night and be fresh.

Getting around in Venice

You have options, and they go by four tiers. The most expensive is to take a gondola, one of those neat little ethnic boats with the guys in the striped shirts. They sometimes sing, they often make jokes, and they make fun of their occupants in quick Italian slang with the other gondola drivers. And fun fact, once a year, many make a pilgrimage up to Prague for the Saint John Nepomuk festival, as he is the patron saint of gondolas. He got that honor for being tossed off Charles’ Bridge by the king because he wouldn’t tell the king what his wife was confessing to him in secret, and the king suspected his queen of doing the nasty with others. So he did what kings did best and had Saint John killed. Gondolas will run you anywhere from 50 dollars to 150 dollars, depending on if you share it with another couple or opt for a private run.

 

 

The second most expensive method of transit is the water taxi. Just like their landborn cousins, they tend to be run by sharks who excel at ripping people off. Sadly there’s no Uber water taxi service yet, as far as I know. Weirdly even the water taxis can cost even more than the gondolas depending on the boat driver, so be aware. But Venice is not big, so why even bother with a taxi?

gondola

gondola traffic jam

Especially when you have the water bus! These “water buses”, or vaporetti, service various stops around the island, going up and down the grand canal and on the other sides, and they also serve to connect all the other islands in the archipelago. You can navigate the vaporetti system with Google maps, or download the Venezia Unica Guide, which hosts a full timetable and route map as well. The vaporetti are most often than not insanely packed. But if you can manage to squeeze in first, then you can get a great window standing spot and watch the city go by, pretending you were rich like Clooney and riding in your private water taxi.

vaporetto

view from the vaporetto

The water buses used to be quite pricey when I was there. But now checking up on them, it seems they’ve dropped the price (which means I’m due back sometime soon…). Vaporetto run you about 1.50 euro a ride, and they also have a day pass which costs thirty euros and is good for 24 hours after you validate it (the daypass also covers you for the fare to and from Mestre, and the local Mestre buses). That’s called the Venezia Metropolitana 24. You can read more about the tickets here and you can buy them at self-service ticket machines (with English), red or orange boxes that say either “emettitrice automatica” or “Venezia unica point” or using the AVM app.

venice

another view from the vaporetto

The last and cheapest way is to walk. Most everywhere on San Polo and San Marco can be reached by foot. Of course, you’ll have to take a vaporetto to get to any of the other islands, as it’s not like you can swim. I mean, don’t swim. That water has got to be toxic. And I can’t imagine how many dead bodies are floating just underneath that murky surface.

St. Mark's square, not during tourist season

Don’t miss!

  1. The beautiful and peaceful island of Murano. The tourist crowds don’t make it out as much, and you get the feeling that people actually live there, especially since there aren’t as many hotels. Everything is in general more relaxed, and the people working at the restaurants are much friendlier (as are the prices).

  2. The grave of Igor Stravinsky. There’s a lovely church on the way to Murano, and from that church you can access quite a large graveyard. Somewhere there is the tomb of the great composer, just a marker and nothing fancy, like the man himself.

  3. A glass of prosecco. There are no open container laws in Venice. So just by a bottle of the local brew and grab a seat with your legs dangling off the edge of a canal. Much more romantic than having to squeeze between some large Russian boxer tourist guys at the bar. At those nice sidewalk cafes, they want you to eat and order big, so they often won't let you relax there with just some vino.

  4. Gondola ride. It’s cheesy. It’s lame. But I still haven’t done one and kind of regret that.

  5. Pizza. It’s cheap. Sure, it’s not exactly local, as pizza comes from Naples, and it’s nowhere near as good as Napolitano pizza, but if you’re on a budget, this is the best to get. And you can even sit in a restaurant, order a pizza, and still not break 10 dollars for your meal. Unless you order a beer.

  6. Mask shops. Venetians and tourists alike still celebrate Carnavale, full of masks and fun. The tradition has kept strong, and has kept the mask industry alive and well, so you can find a great deal and variety of odd masks, from the traditional, to the H.R. Giger. There are shops hidden throughout the alleys with these treasures, made often by the guys who own the shops.

  7. Other towns! Like I said, there’s a train station in Venice proper. That means getting around is really easy, and trains in Italy are really cheap. Trieste is three hours away, Verona one hour, Rocca Scaligera just beyond, and Trent two hours.

Just keep in mind that Venice doesn’t have to be expensive, and that there will be hordes of tourists no matter what. Relax and enjoy!

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