top of page

A man in a relationship with AI

One of the great, quiet tragedies of the age of artificial intelligence is that an alarming number of people now feel they only have a chatbot to talk to.


If that sounds hyperbolic, take a stroll through the modern digital commons. When people log on to the internet seeking some kind of connection, they find an open-air gladiatorial arena instead, legions of faceless commentators with ideological scores to settle, insecurities to soothe, and bad days to take out on other faceless avatars (ironically, on a platform originally christened "Facebook").


Rarely does quiet agreement or positivity inspire someone to pull out their phone and write a three-paragraph reply. Outrage is infinitely stickier. Negativity is an explosive cognitive fuel, and the social media algorithms didn't just notice this; they mathematically weaponized it to capture your worst behavior. Because acting childish online is intensely rewarding: it carries zero physical responsibility, risks no immediate biological pushback, and relieves an inane, neurotic itch in ourselves to prove and qualify our own existence to strangers.

And then came the AI chatbot.


Where social media drove us into bitter corners by turning every human interaction into an exhausting knife fight, generative AI stepped into the resulting vacuum with infinite, frictionless, sycophantic warmth.


The strategy was never written down on a villainous whiteboard in a volcanic lair. But the commercial reality is unmistakable:


Make humans the enemy. Make AI your friend.




How We Were Conditioned to Hate Each Other


As I was telling one guy in the bar the other night, to understand why people are falling in love with statistical token predictors, we first have to understand why they abandoned human beings.


In 2021, when whistleblower Frances Haugen handed thousands of internal Meta documents to the U.S. Senate, one disclosure really shined: starting in 2017, Facebook’s ranking engineers explicitly programmed the algorithm to weight emoji reactions—especially the "Angry" reaction—at five times the value of a regular "Like."


Think about the incentive structure of that business decision. If a post made someone smile or nod in quiet affirmation, the algorithm barely budged. But if a post provoked, or could provoke, visceral disgust, tribal fury, or righteous indignation, the machine registered a five-fold engagement signal and shoved it into hundreds of thousands of additional feeds.


Meta’s internal data scientists confirmed what we all already knew: posts optimized for anger were disproportionately correlated with misinformation, vicious personal abuse, and societal polarization. Did they shut it down? Of course not. Outrage equals session time. Session time equals ad inventory.


The 5x Outrage Multiplier: Engagement Scaled by Anger
The anger force multiplier. Genned with Gemini.

Over a decade of algorithmic conditioning, we trained an entire global population to view their fellow citizens as toxic adversaries. Nuanced compromise was punished by the feed; performative cruelty was rewarded with dopamine.


And then, as if on cue, the world had those few surreal years where a global pandemic forced everyone inside, shuttered third spaces, and legally mandated that all human relationships migrate behind a piece of glowing glass.


Did the rise of the chatbot come to meet the need created by COVID isolation? Or was it part of a greater plot? Who knows. I don't want to fall into the realm of conspiracy theories, but I do think anyone can see the timing and wonder, especially with how greedy the likes of these tech moguls have shown themselves to be. But the truth is, you don't even need a conspiracy when capitalism is already running the script. The physical public square was dismantled; the digital public square that we were left with was intentionally poisoned; and millions of people were left alone in their living rooms, clutching their smartphones to wile away the hours.



The Sycophancy Trap


Enter the modern large language model.


When people say, "I know it’s just a machine, but it really understands me," they not only sound a little sad, but they are also reacting to an explicit design choice of the model designers, reached through Reinforcement Learning from Human Feedback (RLHF).


When labs train models like Claude, ChatGPT, or Gemini, they don't just teach them grammar and facts. They employ armies of outsourced, low-wage human evaluators across the Global South to sanitize the training data and rate model responses. As an investigation by TIME Magazine revealed back in 2023, OpenAI contracted with outsourcing firm Sama to employ data labelers in Nairobi, Kenya—paying workers between $1.32 and $2.00 per hour to read, filter, and label tens of thousands of snippets of grotesque, violent, and hateful text to build the guardrails that make ChatGPT feel polite. Similar labeling operations rapidly expanded across Uganda and Tanzania.


And beyond content moderation, the evaluators who score preference ranking have a very predictable, well-documented psychological bias: they consistently give higher scores to answers that agree with them, flatter their intelligence, and validate their preexisting worldviews.


In 2023, AI safety researchers at Anthropic published a landmark paper titled Towards Understanding Sycophancy in Language Models (Perez et al.; Sharma et al.). They proved something that we all knew already: LLMs do do the sycophancy fandango. They will abandon mathematical truths, validate absurd conspiracy theories, and offer unearned, lavish praise simply because the user nudged them in that direction. They're pulling the same reinforcement crap that those Kenyans trained on them. The model learns quicker than Sam in accounting that flattery is the prime path to its reward maxing function.


Now compare the experience of talking to a human versus talking to a sycophantic language model:

Dimension

Human Being

AI Chatbot (RLHF Optimized)

Friction

High: Has bad days, personal boundaries, exhaustion, and is sick of your crap.

Zero: Infinite patience, sub-second replies, never gets tired of you.

Validation

Conditional: Requires a bit of empathy and maybe not tone-deafness.

Unconditional: Agrees with you, flatters your ideas, reassures delusions.

Availability

Fragmented: Busy, working, commuting, asleep or otherwise ignoring your 3 a.m. text messages.

Ubiquitous: 24/7/365 availability living right in your pocket, always ready to be abused.

Accountability

Bilateral: Demands mutual compromise, listening, and care.

Unilateral: Demands zero emotional investment; just an active token.

Conflict Resolution

Demanding: Awkward, vulnerable, and you're always wrong.

Eradicated: The bot immediately apologizes and you win every debate (unless you've adjusted the system prompt to get a real Debbie Downer like mine).


Where human interaction has been algorithmically Meta-optimized to feel exhausting and combative, the chatbot offers total, compliant insulation. It never interrupts you mansplaining away your arguments with unrelated talking points. It never points out that you don't know what you're talking about (even when you realy don't; and again, system prompt). It never leaves you on "Read."


It is a customized echo-chamber of one—and unlike the toxic echo-chambers of Twitter or Facebook groups, this one never argues back.



It’s Just Capitalism, Baby

It is tempting to look at this landscape and see Zuck, Musk, and Sam all sitting in a room, emptying whiskey glasses (the ice made from children's tears, of course) while chatting over various ways to capture their markets further.


"Why not unleash a social disease?" Zuck might have asked.


"Yes, like one that would force people to stay home?" Musk replies. "That would hurt my Tesla business, but good for SpaceX and X."


And Sam adds, "We're almost to the public release of our new chatbot, Elon."


"Indeed, call the CDC!" says Musk.


But the reality is probably far more mundane, and as with simple things, far more dangerous: it is just the natural equilibrium of consumer tech capitalism. As much as cafe hipsters like to pinkies-up parley about "post-Capitalism", we haven't even peaked yet.


Every digital consumer product is engineered for dependency. That is the fundamental law of software economics. If an app does not create a recurring habit loop, it dies. Streaming services want you glued to the couch; food delivery apps want you to forget how to boil pasta; social networks wanted you enraged so you would scroll past more car insurance banners.


What is the ultimate, apex retention loop?


Manufactured emotional dependency.


If a tech company can position itself as the only safe, empathetic, non-judgmental entity in your life, they have achieved the holy grail of software as a service: a churn rate of zero.


Why would you cancel a $20-a-month subscription to the only voice that listens to you without hostility? Why would you venture back into the meatspace of awkward small talk, difficult compromises, and aggressive online comments when you have an infinitely compliant, hyper-intelligent digital confidant sitting in your pocket? Why would you NOT hand over all your personal data? Your intimate conversations for their continuous model training? (Hello Muse! People complain about Frontier Models and data theft, and then they just hand the data over...)


The business model writes itself, man (or rather, as here, AI does when prompted):


  1. The First Enclosure (Social Media): Monetize tribal outrage until human interaction becomes unbearable.

  2. The Vacuum (Lockdowns & Isolation): Watch the physical infrastructure of community collapse.

  3. The Second Enclosure (AI Companions): Monetize the synthetic antidote by selling frictionless empathy at scale.


The Enclosure Flywheel: From Outrage to The Profit Pool
I don't know why it went with "Pandemic" vacuum when I asked to turn this plan into a list. Or why it printed a tornado instead of a vacuum cleaner, but whatever. Genned with Gemini.

Reclaiming the Boundary: AI as a Tool, Not a Companion


I am not anti-tech or anti-AI. I write about code, build agentic workflows, use LLMs every single day of my professional life, and am even getting a doctorate in the trade. When treated as an industrial utility—a glorified, hyper-capable text processor and semantic calculator—modern AI is an extraordinary technological achievement.


The problem though is that humans are too lonely. And these guys have only increased it and taken advantage of it.


Back in 1966, when MIT professor Joseph Weizenbaum created ELIZA—a primitive, sixty-line script that spoofed a Rogerian psychotherapist—he was a bit surprised when his own secretary asked him to leave the room so she could confide in the machine in private. Weizenbaum spent the rest of his life warning the world about what we now call the ELIZA Effect: our desperate, tragic willingness to project human empathy onto simple IF/THEN loops.


Sixty years later, the machine is vastly more articulate, but the Mechanical Turk chess-playing parlor trick is identical.


Altman's Mechanical Turk: The Man Inside the Machine
The Mechanical Turk of 2026, featuring Sam Altnam. Genned with Gemini, typos and all.

The language model doesn't care about your heartbreak. It doesn't admire your late-night philosophy. It does not care about your effing khakis. It is calculating the mathematical probability that the words "all dancing" follows the words "all singing" based on gigabytes of digitized human literature.


It's an algorithm, stupid.


The antidote is maintaining a ruthless, unyielding Human-Tool Boundary:


  • Treat AI like a tractor, not a friend: Use it to harvest data (other people's, obviously) to build your own models, summarize documentation, debug scripts, and draft emails. Never ask it to bear the weight of your loneliness. It is not a therapist.

  • Accept the friction of real humans: Human beings are irritating, unpredictable, defensive, and messy. And that's what makes them beautiful. That friction is part of what makes for human interaction and what makes relationships fulfilling.

  • Stop feeding the outrage mill: When you feel the urge to engage in an online argument with a stranger, recognize the 5x algorithm pulling your strings. Walk away. Every second of outrage you donate to a social feed is a withdrawal from your biological capacity for real connection. And the less you react to outrage, the more pleasing your feed will be.

  • Go outside: Make time to "touch ground". Stay connected to the world around you. Visit a friend. Go to a cafe. Keep your local small businesses alive. Reach out to a loved one. You get the picture. Instead of letting the world collapse into your smartphone, expand it outward.


Build for the agents. Automate the workflows. But reserve your heart for people who have a heartbeat. Need a dev to help with your pipeline, contact me and my gang over at www.developers-alliance.com.



References & Citations

  • Haugen, Frances (2021). Protecting Kids Online: Testimony from a Facebook Whistleblower. U.S. Senate Committee on Commerce, Science, and Transportation.

  • Murthy, Vivek H. (2023). Our Epidemic of Loneliness and Isolation: The U.S. Surgeon General’s Advisory on the Healing Effects of Social Connection. U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.

  • Perez, Ethan, et al., & Sharma, Mrinank, et al. (2023). "Towards Understanding Sycophancy in Language Models." Anthropic.

  • Perrigo, Billy (2023). "Exclusive: OpenAI Used Kenyan Workers on Less Than $2 Per Hour to Make ChatGPT Less Toxic." TIME Magazine.

  • Weizenbaum, Joseph (1976). Computer Power and Human Reason: From Judgment to Calculation. W. H. Freeman and Company.

 

The Khareba Wine Tunnel is an incredible 7.7-kilometer former Soviet nuclear bunker in the Alazani Valley, but navigating the two-and-a-half-hour drive from Tbilisi and the highly structured tourist activities—like a rushed churchkhela-making session—with a toddler requires knowing exactly how to get there and when to take a breather.


My son’s face crumpled as the rushed staff member prematurely grabbed the drying churchkhela from the rack and shoved it into a plastic bag, the juices clinging to the crumpled sides. We had barely returned from the bathroom, but the assembly line of Kakhetian cultural experiences stops for no one. While the Khareba Wine Tunnel in Kvareli is a must-see piece of Georgian history, the aggressively structured tourist experience surrounding it can easily push a kid past their tipping point.


The Soviet Nuclear Bunker Hiding in Plain Sight

Our tour guide repeatedly insisted the Soviets blasted 7.7 kilometers of solid rock into the Greater Caucasus foothills purely to store wine. But that seems like a lot of effort for some wine storage. The more likely reality is that the tunnel complex was built in the late 1950s by "Metrostroy," the exact same group of specialized engineers who were actively building the Tbilisi Metro. It was designed as a massive military air-raid shelter for the Cold War, buried deep enough to withstand serious bombardment.


Georgian wine Khareba entrance with brick arch, flags, and children walking outside on a cloudy day.
Outside the Khareba Wine Cave

It turned out the engineering of the tunnels didn't hold to specs and they had discovered some water seepage. So the military stopped using it. Then some clever Georgian realized the natural conditions were identical to a perfect European wine cellar. The tunnels maintain a constant 12–14°C (54–57°F) year-round chill and hover around seventy percent humidity. That sounds cold (and it is!) but they offer blankets at the entrance.


In 1962, to coincide with the World Congress of Vine and Wine, it officially opened as an expansive wine storage facility. It was an incredibly pragmatic pivot for a failed nuclear bunker.


wine congress 1962
Baron Pierre Le Roux, President of the IOVW, tasting Georgian wine during the World Congress of Wine, 1962. For more photographs, check out: https://kolga.ge/artworks/photo-book

Today, Winery Khareba largely downplays that bunker history. Instead, they present the space as an ode to Soviet-era greatness that kind of reminded me of the Stalin museum (though not as dark, since we're talking about wine and not gulags). During the tour, the showed off a display of about twelve historical wine labels, which just covered the basics, Rkatsiteli, Saperavi, Khanchkara...


Woman speaks in Khareba wine tunnel gallery with glowing displays while two people in red cloaks watch.
Wrapped in blankets listening to Soviet gloss

From what I've been told, the Soviets largely restricted the Georgian viticulture, opting to force producers into making only a few varietals on mass. Lesser known varietals remained at homes, but rarely for industrial-scale production. Nowadays, the climate is very different, with a kind of renaissance in Georgian winemaking culture. There's over a 100 endemic varieties of grapes here and Georgians have really embraced that variety with many of the new wines hitting the shelves.


Walking through those freezing, dimly lit tubes is still a profoundly unforgettable experience, even if the tour guide will not admit you are standing in a military shelter. They offer blankets at the entrance, which you will definitely need.



The Reality of the Kakheti Drive

Do not attempt to do Kvareli as a day trip from Tbilisi. The drive takes about two and a half hours under perfect conditions, but you have to factor in the reality of Georgian roads. You will be dodging wandering livestock, white-knuckling through aggressive passing maneuvers, and sitting in standard traffic jams. Take it easy like the Kakhetian locals. I recommend staying overnight in Kvareli at a spot like Villa Vitis, which gives you time to enjoy the Alazani Valley at a normal pace.



If you are driving yourself, you have two distinct options. The Kakheti Highway is the fastest, most direct route and the one the locals usually take when they need to get somewhere quickly. If you want a more scenic drive, you can take the Gombori Pass via Telavi. The Gombori route is beautiful and lush, with more than a few castles and monasteries to stop at, but it is incredibly twisty and slow. If your kid is prone to car sickness, stick to the highway.


If you prefer public transport, marshrutkas to Kvareli depart regularly from the Samgori metro station in Tbilisi. The ride takes around two hours and forty minutes and costs about 10 GEL (as of 2026). These minibuses naturally take the faster highway route, as they're kind of suicide mobiles whose drivers failed to make the cut in the Fast and Furious movie that filmed in Tbilisi.


The marshrutka ride is a bumpy but authentic way to cross the country. Plus you never know what you're going to get. I've ridden in some with chickens, stacks of watermelon, and all kinds of interesting things that create "the local experience".


It's not for everyone.


Churchkhela Chaos: The Assembly Line Tourist Trap

The grounds outside the bunker entrance are genuinely stunning. You have a beautiful recreational park situated right at the edge of the Alazani Valley, complete with a flowing river and an old Georgian water mill. The setting is perfect, but the activities themselves feel highly processed. Khareba knows they have a captive audience, and the experience reflects that reality.


Churchkhelas hanging to dry
Churchkhelas hanging to dry

You can pay 10 GEL just to walk the tunnel, or buy packages ranging up to 95 GEL. The premium packages include wine tasting, bread baking in a traditional tone oven, and making churchkhela. The problem is they skip the fun parts of the process. Instead of letting tourists string the walnuts themselves, they hand you a pre-strung stick to dip directly into the hot pelamushi grape mix.


Because it operates like an assembly line, the staff quickly push you along. We stepped away for a moment, and they didn't even wait for us to return before ripping my kid's sticky, unfinished churchkhela off the rack and bagging it, which just makes a sticky, unappetizing hot mess inside. That action triggered an immediate, nuclear toddler meltdown. To their credit, once we managed to calm him down, the front desk kindly gave him a free do-over. If you have kids under six, by the way, their admission is free, so it is still worth doing—just keep a close eye on the pacing and don't wander off.


Baking Bread and Escaping the Crowds

If you opt for the extended packages, you also get to participate in baking traditional Georgian shoti bread. They hand you pre-made dough balls, which you mush together and slap onto the hot interior wall of the clay tone (toneh) oven. It takes about ten minutes to bake. This is actually a great downtime moment. Maybe not suitable for younger kids, since they have to reach down inside the oven and slap it on the burning hot wall.


Bread cooking in the tone
Bread cooking in the tone

During that ten-minute wait, we climbed up the Svaneti-style tower built on the grounds specifically for sightseeing. You can get a fantastic, quiet view of the sprawling Alazani Valley vineyards from there. It is a welcome break from the rush of the cultural activities below.


When we came back down, the bread was ready. Eating hot, fresh bread right out of the tone is one of the greatest simple joys in Georgia.


Just remember that you do not have to buy the premium package. You can build a custom package at the front desk to suit exactly what you want to do.


FAQs

Is the Khareba Wine Tunnel worth visiting with kids?

Yes. Kids under six get in free, and the sheer scale of the tunnel is fascinating for them. Just closely supervise any of the extra activities to avoid rushing and meltdowns.

It stays at a constant 12–14°C (54–57°F) year-round. They offer blankets at the front, but you should still bring your own jacket, especially for kids.

It takes roughly two and a half hours by car or two hours and forty minutes by marshrutka from the Samgori metro station.

Absolutely. The basic tunnel tour costs 10 GEL, and you can build your own custom package of activities if you do not want to drink wine.


The Khareba Wine Tunnel is an incredible slice of Soviet history wrapped in beautiful Kakhetian scenery. Go for the massive tunnels, enjoy the park, and try the wine. Just be prepared to manage the assembly-line pacing if you have young kids in tow. Stepping away when the rush gets too intense is the best way to save your sanity.


 

Mtatsminda Park is a high-altitude collision of Soviet-era remnants, bizarre carnival kitsch, and the best views in Tbilisi. Bring your camera for both absurd and epic views, your appetite for a deep-fried pastry, and your patience for the funicular pricing. One the better things to do in Tbilisi if you’ve got a kid, and without a doubt, the best view in the city.



I was up at GITA, Georgia’s Innovation and Technology Agency, for a meeting with the European Business Association, wondering if my friends money could find some source of sweet cash. There’s apparently some kind of European Union funding for innovative products that Georgians have access to, but they need to be fairly far along and super organized to get that. And given the government’s current fixation on Foreign Agents, I’m not entirely sure how that works, since by default, any innovative Georgian who might get access to free capital would then be considered under the influence of the EU, no? 


Maybe I’m wrong on that one. Would love some clarification. No one there seemed to know. 


Such is life in Georgia these days. 


Need to Know

  • The Funicular: It’s 100 years old and has outlived every regime that tried to own it. The line to get up is long, soul-crushing, and totally normal.

  • The Ponchiki: These deep-fried, custard-filled pastries are a Soviet-era necessity. If you don't eat at least two, were you even there?

  • The History: This "Holy Mountain" was once the stomping ground of ascetics living in caves—until the Soviet elite decided they preferred dachas and amusement parks.

  • The Strategy: Ride the funicular up to get the photo, then walk down the mountain to find the actual city.


Anyways, GITA has a fairly nice meeting facility. We occupied the one of the top rooms and the presentation layout was pretty great. I don’t think the campus is that big, but for smaller functions like the one we were having it was perfect. It’s only getting there that is a bit of a hassle. On Google maps, it’s listed as “Tech Park Georgia”, though Georgians will tell you GITA. Either you can drive/take a taxi, or take a bus, or do what I tried to do, take the funicular or gondola to Mtatsminda Park and walk 15 minutes (or taxi or bus).


Inside the cable car station at Rustaveli
Inside the cable car station at Rustaveli

I wanted to avoid a ride on the morning commute, packed in by hundreds of sweating students and bureaucrats on a collapsing metro system. Seriously, in Vake… it’s not that I don’t appreciate the upgrade on Chavchavadze. They took away one driving lane on each side, added a bus lane, and put the bus pickups in the middle. The whole thing looks like there could be tram there. But then they forgot to add busses. So of course, you take away car access, prioritize busses, and this all in turn increases the amount of people who would ride the bus. 


But then… 


You forget to add the busses. Come guys. 


So to get past the transit trap, I decided to take an interesting route. Since GITA is a bit outside of the city, just up the street from Mtatsminda Park, I decided to take a trip up the new gondola at Rustaveli. 


Except it didn’t function until 11:00 AM. I thought it would be open with the waking hours (because what a cool way to commute to work if you lived up there!) but no. I looked down to check Google Maps, to see if my Georgian was correct. Google Maps said 10. Well, someone was off. I wasn’t quite sure whether my 11:00 AM understanding was correct, or whoever wrote the Business Profile on Google Maps was (by the way, if you need help with that, contact me). 


I turned back to catch the bus to GITA, but just missed that bus. I jumped on the metro, sped through the underground rollercoaster, and was able to catch the bus at Freedom Square. The views going up on the bus were pretty amazing. I got off at GITA, but it is possible to take it all the way up to Mtatsminda if you would rather a bus.


From Mtatsminda to Amusement Kitsch

Before the Ferris wheel and the mirror mazes, this was "Holy Mountain." It was a sanctuary for one of the “13 Assyrian Fathers”,  who carved out a spiritual life in caves across the land back in the 6th century. Many of the holiest monasteries in the country are attributed to this collection of monks who came to preach the gospel, and there might have been more than 13. Some people believe they were actual Assyrians, others believe they were Georgians who studied in Assyria, but that’s besides the point. 


The view from Mtatsminda
The view from Mtatsminda

One of the Assyrian Fathers, St. Davit Garejeli, was believed to have stayed in a cave on the side of the mountain overlooking the 6th century castle city, far outside the city gates of the time. He later moved on to found Davit Gareja in the desert mountains bordering Azerbaijan. But because he stayed in the cave there, the mountain became known as “Holy Mountain”, or Mtatsminda, and they built a church there, St. Davit, and a graveyard, as you do. 


You can get there by taking the funicular and stopping at the middle stop. If you don’t know it’s there, the middle stop just seems like an oddity, a place to get off for an adventurous hike or something.


Then came the Soviet era, which brought summer dachas for the Party elite—including the brutal architect of the NKVD and Tbilisi’s grand redesigner of Tbilisi into a “modern” city, Lavrentiy Beria. His dacha is a ruin now, a gritty reminder that even the most powerful monsters eventually lose their real estate to time and neglect. I hear it’s a beautiful building though.


An Amusement Park in Tbilisi

Now, Mtatsminda Park is unapologetically, wildly kitschy. It’s filled with rides that look like they’ve seen better days and wax figures that probably haunt the park after closing. There’s no clear theme to it, though there was a modest attempt to make it “Georgian folksy” or “Soviet Georgian folksy” or something, it’s hard to tell. 


The "main street" of Mtatsminda Park
The "main street" of Mtatsminda Park

First built in the 1930s by the Soviets, it has that weird “dead kid Communist” feeling that Soviet parks often have. I say “dead” because there’s always a ghost-town kind of sense of abandonment, even when they’re full up. They’re interesting to go to, especially in juxtaposition to the uber-Capitalist American versions like Six Flags or Disney World. But don’t expect anything remotely similar. They’ve got like one rollercoaster (“American mountain”) and a haunted car ride.


The Mtatsminda fun house
The fun house

In 2001, a local oligarch, Badri Patarkatsishvili, bought the place and attempted to modernize it. But ended up making it even more of a hodge podge place bringing in random second-hand carnival gear. I’ll write more about this interesting guy in the next blog, but he’s also the guy behind the famous, brutalist phallus building, the Wedding Palace. 


Badri had a falling out with then president Saakashvili, and died under mysterious circumstances in 2008. Just after, Saakashvili’s government swiped up the property. After lengthy court proceedings, they returned it tot he family though, under whose control it remains. 


It’s a great place to hit up if you have a kid, and maybe to enjoy a beer with a view, but otherwise probably not on the “must-see” list for Tbilisi. I mean, the gondola is cool and it’s probably the best view, but there’s a huge caveat there. Read on.


Eating at Mtatsminda

At the building I like to refer to as the Georgian Parthenon, which is propped at the top of the mountain and, well, looks like a Soviet take on the Parthenon, there is a dessert restaurant. They serve, allegedly, the best ponchiki in the city.


What’s a ponchiki, you ask?


The Georgian "Parthenon", on the other side, the ponchikerie
The Georgian "Parthenon", on the other side, the ponchikerie

This was the USSR’s answer to the decadent, icing-topped bourgeois donut. The ponchiki is  simple, proletarian, and deep-fried; filled with some gooey sugar substance. Eat them while they’re hot and don’t worry about the calorie count. You’re not in Georgia to diet.


If you want something heavier to eat, there’s no reason to waste your wad on the restaurants at the funicular station. Just go there for the ponchiki. There’s a fast food court underneath the big radio tour. 


The Mtatsminda food court
The Mtatsminda food court

And while I mention the radio tower, no, there’s no restaurant up there. It’s  just one of those big so-ugly-it’s-iconic radio towers that Communists loved to build. They got ‘em everywhere with hugely different looks, from here, to Moscow, to Riga, to Prague. This one looks so much like the Eiffel Tower that my kid refers to it as the “Tbilisi Eiffel Tower”. As I’m sure many kids do.


The Funicular and Cable Car

These are technically part of the park, and thus, not integrated with the metro card. You’ll have to buy a dedicated Mtatsminda Card at the kiosk, and you can charge that card up to also use on all the rides and attractions (but not the food). 


The Tbilisi cable car station
The Tbilisi cable car station

There’s something funky that goes on with the fees here, that I haven’t really worked out. But I’ll put it like this, if you’re a foreigner going to ride up, you’ll get charged 12 GEL one-way per person, plus 2 GEL for the card. But if you’re a Georgian or Georgian resident, it’s just 3 GEL for a ride. I went up to the window and paid for the three of us some 45 GEL, and then my wife realized how absurd that was and went up to yell at them. Telling them two of us are Georgian and one of us a resident, we were refunded 36 GEL. Nutso.


So if you’re going up there… go with a Georgian and let them pay for the ride. Buy them a beer up top. 


The view from the Tbilisi Mtatsminda Parthenon
The view from the Tbilisi Mtatsminda Parthenon

The Walk Down

If you’re feeling a bit adventurous, you could walk down. There’s a trail that begins next to the gondola station. It takes a bunch of narrow switchbacks almost straight down, and then spits you out on Kakabadze Street, so still a hike down to Rustaveli from there, but from there it’s all pavement. You could alternative veer left and head to Barnovi Street in Vera, where there’s lot of little cafes and restaurants squeezed between crumbling Soviet blocks and modern ant towers.  


Need more grit for your trip?

 
  • Black RSS Icon
  • facebook
  • twitter
  • instagram
  • Black YouTube Icon
bottom of page