- Shawn Basey
- 1 day ago
- 7 min read
Updated: 23 hours ago

One of my favorite holidays in Belgium was their National Day. It starts with a parade and children’s fair and ends with the Cinquantenaire turning into a giant beer garden with fireworks banging on overhead (or drones winging around making a menacing display). It’s a true family holiday, with something for everyone. Bouncy castles, street food, beer, folk music, rave music, and so on.

The second year we were there, we had decided to meet up at my place. My Georgian mother-in-law was visiting, so we could stuff ourselves with khatchapuri and then head on out. We had our blanket in arm and started walking on down, the family and a couple of friends. And then we got to a massive crowd outside of the gates.
And on the other side of the gates?
No massive crowd.
What gave? The guards were turning people back. Too many people in the park. But a quick survey of the surroundings showed there were more people just outside the gates in a tighter area! So, I made a mental note and resolved that the following year, there would be no khatchapuri. We would sit on a blanket and eat sausages, dag nabbit jesh maritad blin!
The Belgian Revolution
Belgian National Day is celebrated on July 21. But this is not the real Belgian National Day. It’s actually a complete fabrication of a proud king’s imagination. The real Belgian National Day is on September 27. That date is about the Revolution, which started when a bunch of opera-goers from La Monnaie got super pissed off at the Dutch monarchy and hit the streets.

You see, the head man of the United Netherlands, King William I of Orange (not the color, but also the color) was visiting his fair city of Brussels, and he wanted a mad-cap party to celebrate his fifteenth year of rule (not that the locals were very happy about it).
The opposition decided to cooperate with him on that.
The schedule went thus:
Monday the 23rd: Fireworks.
Tuesday, the 24th: Illuminations.
Wednesday, the 25th: Revolution.
The opera house was playing, La muette de Portici, a musical play about revolution and dancing. Just beforehand, a revolutionary newspaper tweeted out that people should leave on the fifth act. Not only because it was a disappointment, but because the King would never suspect people leaving after paying 150 euros a seat.
The United Kingdom of the Netherlands
Just to keep this short, William was the King of a United Kingdom that was invented just after Napoleon’s bout across Europe. The Frenchman was out collecting principalities like my son collects roly-polies on our walk to school, and after his defeat, something had to be done with all these territories.
At that time, the lowlands (or Netherlands) was divided in two parts, and one part (Flanders) shared the same rule with a weird bit of Francophonic, beer-swilling Minecraft squeezed between France and Germany. This bit of land was owned by the Austrian Emperor, who had inherited it from his Spanish relatives, who had inherited it from other Austrian relatives who had gotten it when they were running the Holy Roman Empire (this is the short, simple version, mind you).

So that was the “Austrian Netherlands”. The other Netherlands was actually a republic, but it was being constantly undermined by the powerful Orange family, who had centuries earlier migrated in from France after failing to take over that throne. Despite the country being a republic, the lands were still owned by someone, and that someone was the Orange family. Finally, Napoleon and his defeat paved the way for the Oranges, under William VI, to stake out a new claim, that of the Netherlands.
At the Congress of Vienna, Europeans gathered together to divvy up land that wasn’t really theirs. William threw down his claim, not only that the Netherlands should have a king (him) but also that it made perfect sense for him to throw in Brabant, Flanders, and Wallonia because, ohpsa, what’s this, they had also married into that family as well.
William VI then became King William I of the United Kingdom of the Netherlands.

Not everyone likes a king, or does
The problem with the Dutch was that they were Protestant. The Flemish and Walloons were Catholic (having been under Habsburg rule). Now William had a brilliant idea. He thought he might fix that divide and make everyone a Dutch Protestant. Never mind that there were Catholics and Francophones in a great deal of his territories.
And that brings us back to the revolution and a newly independent Belgium, consisting of the Catholic states that were once a part of the United Kingdom of the Netherlands.
Now it wasn’t that these folk were against having a king. They quite liked the idea. They just didn’t like the idea of William being king.

After two days of brutal street fighting, William’s enforcers deserted on mass and he was no longer able to keep a hold on the territory. On September 27, the not-so-Dutch declared independence, claimed they were all descendants of the ancient Belgae tribe, and voted on a new form of government, this time led by a king, Leopold I.
Leopold was a Protestant nobleman from Saxe-Coburg (same line as the British and Russian rulers) who served in the Russian army against Napoleon. Of course, it’s weird they chose a Protestant just after fighting and kicking out the Protestants, but that’s Belgium for you.
He became the first king of Belgium on July 21. Ah, recognize that date?
Belgian National Day
Leopold was not such a proud man to make a day a holiday after himself. That claim goes to his son, Leopold II, the same guy who funded a lot of Brussels’ fantastic, monumental buildings from profits off his slave plantations in the Congo. He also moved Belgian National Day from September 27 to July 21, to firmly establish the identity of the crown with the people.
There is of course, the regularly recognizable arches that he had built. But there's also this bizarre goldfish pond with a Trumpian etching of slaves with crocodiles, with an inscription for the "brave Belgian explorers" and something about how they got rid of the Arab slavers (the sculptor either had a keen sense of irony or left it at the bank), though the "Arab" part was removed at the request of the mosque nearby.

My kid used to love visiting the goldfish here, though I'd try to discourage it. But there's only so much you can do to persuade a 2-year-old. He loved it so much, he rolled a Hot Wheel right off the side, plopping into the water straight to the bottom. So, if you're around when they at last drain that thing, grab it and send it to me in Georgia, would you?
And that’s where we are next week, when Belgium celebrates the birth of their nation. Or kingdom. Or whatever.
The Official Parade
The day kicks off with a big military/civil service parade, composed of soldiers, Bradleys, firefighters, police, customs agents (the ones looking for drugs, not the weird American gestapo-style ones), and so on. It passes by the Palace or the Parliament or both, depending on the year. Which means the best place to view it is in Parc de Bruxelles. But be warned, they typically and inexplicably shut down the metro station and force everyone to squeeze down the tight sidewalks leading there. C’est la vie.
Get there early, especially if you’re with kids. Not just because of the massive crunch, but also because there’s a ton of kids’ activities there, from inflatable bouncy racetracks to face painting to various contests and games, mostly free or for very small fees. Food and beer are readily available, so don’t concern yourself over that.
The parade itself was always a hit with my kid, who loved watching the firefighters and policemen, though he has, much like his dad, never been into military hardware himself.
The royal propaganda
The fun then continues over at the Parc du Cinquantenaire, where they have a huge light and drone show once it gets dark, incorporating the massive arches in the whole display. It’s really cool and a must see if you’re in town on July 21.
The placement of the final celebrations at the park, and indeed, the migration from the palace to the park, is no real accident either. As I wrote earlier, the real revolution, which had invoked ideals of republic and freedom (before they elected to have a king, ahem… mind you, only rich, male property owners could take part in the Provisional Government that decided this kind of things… so it made sense they’d decide to stick with a monarchy), was in September.
It was King Leopold II who moved it to the Cinquantenaire and made it a kind of “king’s day”. And his most famous legacy is the park’s monumental architecture. So from the palace to the park. And even today, the king makes a special appearance and gives a speech just before the light show.
The light show
As I mentioned earlier, you should get there with plenty of time. And again, food and beer is readily available, as they put in a bunch of stalls (though always with long lines, so maybe bring a picnic) along with Chez Maurice which is already there. Also bring a blanket, because all the benches in the entire park are always taken. Place the blanket towards the center so you can reserve a clear view of the show.

They typically start a mix of rave-style, folk, and pop fairly early, and there’s also the big sandbox playground if you need to entertain your kid for a spell.
Then when it gets dark, there’s not much else to do but to cram into the center aisle and enjoy the show.
Schedule
Action at the Parc du Bruxelles starts at 10 am and wraps up at 8 pm. The parade starts at 4 pm, and the concert, fireworks, laser, etc. show at the Cinquantenaire starts at 9 pm.