top of page

After a tragedy that hits the feels because it’s close to home, massive amounts of people take to Facebook and spread stories about it. Take the New Zealand instance. Westerners relate to New Zealand because it’s Western. We think it’s generally a safe place, so when a shooter walks in and kills everyone inside a place of worship, us Westerners relate. That’s okay. Same goes with tragedies that happen in France (see the passion behind the Notre Dame cathedral fire), England, the United States, and so on. It wasn’t necessarily because the NZ victims were Muslim, as even Christian and/or white victims get a similar amount of treatment (and to an extent, Western people’s buildings get an even more phenomenal treatment) as long as they’re Western.

notre dame at night

Notre Dame. Still there.

But then there always follows a wave of guilt shaming. Saying, “You people paid attention to this conflict, but not to these other conflicts! How dare you!” Then they’ll find tragedies about their own in-group, and rage on Facebook trying to shame people into feeling guilty about this or that. After NZ, posts came up about Nigerian Christians who were killed, or about the ongoing murders of Christians in Syria—curiously those same people had nothing to say later in their posts when 200 Christians were murdered in Sri Lanka (instead of shaming people, imagine if you just shared things). After a jihadist went nuts and stabbed people on a bridge in London, people found some instance about brown people in whereverlandistan, saying, “Ya’ll only care about white people!” And so it goes.

This is, I think, a big symptom of only getting your news on Facebook. Let’s say you deeply care about Nigerian Christians getting murdered. When the NZ attack happened, it certainly felt like the world was ignoring what you cared about, because they’re Muslims! And then you see that someone wrote an article just about that, so that must be what’s happening! But what’s really going on is that’s what the people on your feed care about. They are not The News, they are an echo chamber. This is why it’s important to actually take the time to visit news sites from time to time and not depend upon Facebook as your source of news.

Echoooo! choooo! oo! o!

Facebook shares content from your friends. So you are only seeing content that has been curated by a group of people that you yourself have curated. Does media seem too liberal? Check your friends list. Does it seem to conservative? Check your friends list. There is no Facebook editorial board—which can be good or bad, because true editorial boards can follow agendas (as apparently even the FB algorithm is wont to do). But then also you get caught in an echo chamber, a spiral of news from people with similar interests as yourself. These people share blogs, news articles, and so on that reinforce their (and your) world view, further pushing you into your own slot and so you no longer exist in an objective world, but everything becomes more and more subjective, further slanting your ability to process information.

Fake news?!

You might be surprised to hear this. There has always been fake news. Media has always had an agenda. The first newspapers were run by political parties. They popped up all over the place along with/leading to the parliamentarian form of democracy. Most parties in the European parliaments had a newspaper when they first formed, and many political groups had newspapers and newsletters in wide circulation. Americans might be familiar with Thomas Paine, a prominent newspaper writer, and even the Federalist Papers were a kind of newspaper that was being passed around. All these were produced with political intention, which is to say they represented their side, and not fairly so.

Social-Democrat newspaper in Munich during the Weimar Republic

Media has always sought to create their own narrative, not always in line with history—common during the Weimar Republic were newspaper reports about how the Jews betrayed Germany in World War II, or how there weren’t any Jews on the front lines (they were actually overrepresented in the Kaiser’s armies). Trotsky got his start writing newspapers for the Communists in Tsarist Russia, Lenin wrote tracts, Goebbels was a newspaper editor. I’m not mentioning all these guys to say that journalists are by and large bad people, but rather that they all write with an intention or agenda, even when they don’t want to or are aware of it. And on top of that, there are editors above the writers who are pushing those agendas, and are only letting through specific articles with specific messages that reinforce that journal’s (and therefore party’s) narrative.

It’s not really that different in the modern media. Each news company is owned by one person or another who guides his editorial board in one direction or another for one reason or another. In most post-industrial free market economies, the reason tends to be fairly simple: money. And as politics means money, the media most certainly plays a political game as well.

news is money

News is money

It’s all about the Benjamins

Take, for instance, John Stankey, the CEO of WarnerMedia. WarnerMedia owns Warner Brothers, HBO, CNN, and Turner Broadcasting. Given that he manages a company with such a portfolio, you might assume he was a pretty die-hard Democrat. And you’d be wrong. Stankey is a lifelong Republican and regularly donates to the RNC and donated to the Trump campaign. What’s up with that?

I imagine Stankey is a pretty good businessman. He figures that CNN resonates with a large liberal audience. So he feeds stories to that audience in order to make money. And that’s the bottom line (literally). Media organizations, just like every other corporation, exist solely to cater not to your best interest, but to what will get money. For the past one hundred years or so we’ve become confused—and even enamored with such confusion—on the difference between money-making and self-interest and indeed, another person’s self-interest.

So what to do about it?

The best way to read media is to understand that it is written with a purpose. It doesn’t matter if you’re watching CNN, Fox, a Ben Shapiro YouTube video—they’re all the same and they all have corporate backers (you really think YouTube guys are some sort of underground rebels preaching the way to truth and freedom?). There’s a reason why at the beginning of every Alex Jones or Joe Rogan video, they start with a long list of their sponsors. Then they continue with a message that they know will retain and/or get new viewers. More viewers means more money. That’s it. And if YouTube thinks the blowback from hosting their services will generate less revenue, they will ban them. That’s it. It’s Capitalism, baby. Capitalism is and has never been about securing freedoms, it’s always been about the movement of money.

"Let me first explain all the people paying me to tell you this BS. And you should most definitely buy their crap."

So understand that. CNN might be pushing one agenda because their cousin company works in that field. Maybe they support a set of Democrats because those Democrats and them have a shared interest (in say UPS, who Stankey serves on the board of). And I’m using CNN here as an example, but we can also go with Fox, or Breitbart, or any other company that has carved its moneymaking fiefdom.

So number one: filter what goes in your brain.

Number two: filter what goes on your screen. The best thing to do is to drop Facebook as a device to read about news. Then pick five news sources. Two of which you know to be conservative, two of which are liberal. Then pick another outlier, maybe a foreign media group or one that doesn’t show overly much bias (but keep in mind, they all do, especially the free ones, because they’re not actually free). Ones that are quite open about their slant can be even better. HuffPo and Jacobin for instance, are clearly far left journals. You can read it and understand that. Breitbart or the Blaze are clearly far right. There’s no hiding there.

Read. Digest. Process. Synthesize.

Circles and arrows, it must be true!

The truth usually lies somewhere in the middle.

And the best thing about reading from sources you disagree with, is that you can learn that not everything written is true. Then apply that ability to sources you agree with.

And then recite that Reinhold Niebuhr prayer that recovering alcoholics like so much. Is it within your control? No. Then take a breath. Release. Have a glass of wine. Enjoy the view. Say hi to your neighbor. Do a good deed today. Start with what you can manage. The whole world doesn’t live online. Rather, the whole world lives around you. Today. Right now.

Updated: Mar 14, 2020


coffee in tbilisi

Wondering where to get a proper cup of coffee in the Caucasian capital? Wonder no more.

Years ago, getting a decent coffee in Tbilisi was a task only for Tom Cruise’s mission impossible team. Ordering a “cappuccino” when I first came to Georgia would get you a cup of instant coffee with hot milk instead of water. The scene started to change as Lavazza and Illy (basically the Italian Folgers in your cup) entered the market, first with a wave of small little corner shops and finally, general market acceptance in restaurants everywhere, so that no matter where you go now you can at least get something decent. Starbucks awareness began to grow when in the haute neighborhood of Vake opened up a “Starbucks” (eventually people realized it wasn’t an actual Starbucks and they stopped going).

But what about for the coffee snobs—and basically any Berlin-worshipping hipster nob—who requires something at least 5 dollars a cup and served at an exact temperature in a glass test tube? I’m happy to say that Tbilisi has fully embraced the coffee revolution, from corner shops serving aeropress (or whatever the next big thing is) to even a homegrown coffee chain that looks astonishingly like that of the degenerate mermaid grinds.

If you’re visiting or living in Tbilisi and looking for your next caffeine fix, you’d do well to try these places. They're in no particular order, as coffee is highly subjective. And do note that most of the more hipster drinks tend to be lighter than what you're used to in Europe or the States.

1. Prospero’s Books and Caliban’s Coffee

Prospero’s deserves the honorable place at the top of the list for being the first real indy coffee shop to enter the Tbilisi market. It was the primary place of gathering for expats through those dark ages of the coffee bean when instant coffee ruled the land supreme. In 1999, they started roasting their own beans and had one of Tbilisi’s only espresso machines for probably about 10 years. It started as a place to sit and read your latest literary purchase from the bookstore that it shares a beautiful little courtyard with. Incidentally, I’ve never heard of the coffee house being called “Caliban’s” except on their official marketing material, as most locals tend to refer to both the bookstore and cafe as "Prospero's".

The interior is spacious, having both places for laptop soldiers and those who want to sit back, relax, and chat with friends. The patio is unbeatable in terms of coffee shops in Tbilisi, so it makes for an especially great spot in the spring or summer. They've also managed to open a similar place in the National Archives on Pekini and a smaller location next to Betsy's Hotel up the hill from the original.

Double B Tbilisi

Double B Coffee & Tea

2. Double B Coffee & Tea

This Moscow-based coffee company helped kick off the latest wave of coffee culture in Tbilisi. A truly “third wave” roaster excelling in their single-sourced choices, they’ll happily brew up an aeropress for you. Double B has an excellent and cozy interior that’s somewhat reminiscent of vintage American styles. It’s a big enough place to bring your book or laptop, but small enough to remain intimate and cozy.

Double B

Double B on Tabidze

3. Pin Pon

Another Moscow implant, Pin Pon has been staking a pretty stolid claim on the Tbilisi coffee front. With three locations across town—and each preserving their small-time, independent charm—it’s hard to say they haven’t met success in the city. They’ve got these strange cups here that feel like they're made from wood pulp or something, I don’t know. They’re weirdly light but, like ceramics, they don’t interfere with the taste of the joe. The last I was at their Sololaki location, their aeropress was out on loan and I had to have a V60. I’m still not sold on V60s myself. The americanos and espressos are solid though.

Their Sololaki location has a perfect balance of size and intimacy to be comfortable both with reading, working, and chatting. The Vake location is basically just a coffee window with a small cluster of eclectic furniture in an Italian yard (a great place in the summer if you don’t mind the window grandmas staring down at you), and finally, the Isani location is only open during music festivals at ElectroWerk. I’m hoping they’ll change strategies and be open all the time, as I’d love a good coffee shop in my hood.

Pin Pon

Pin Pon's Vake courtyard location

4. Skola

Another leader in the Russian caffeine invasion. If the Russians can’t win Georgians over by occupying parts of their country, then at least they can do it through Western coffee culture! Whatever the reason, it’s a style of invasion that I can actually support.

Skola Tbilisi

Nice work benches up top at Skola

Skola has a hyper-modern minimalist interior that would look perfect in an IKEA catalog. Their coffee is great and they serve a lot of fancy food dishes too (try their breakfasts). You can also tell that one of their strategies is to have brilliant customer service, as they’ve got some of the friendliest and most amicable staff in town (a real feat in Tbilisi). The downstairs is best suited for chatting with friends, but those in need of a Rustaveli workspace and an aeropress should take their lappy upstairs where the long benches are perfect for a shared space.

photography in tbilisi

Checking out the photos at Minimalist

5. Minimalist

Speaking of minimalism, you can’t get more minimal than this coffee shop-slash-photography gallery. There’s only a very small area to sit, as this concept is more to get you strolling with your coffee and enjoying and discussing the various works of local and guest photographers. See Tbilisi through the eyes of others with a visit at Minimalist.

coffee shop in tbilisi

Outside Minimalist

6. Luca Polare

I think I managed to cover all of the Luca Polare branches in that list. More Italian style, this local chain named for a polar bear pours out the more traditional brews of espressos and americanos along with the tastiest ice cream in Tbilisi. Oddly enough, they contract their roasting to a family in Germany who ships it back here. Whatever they do, it’s the right mix for your more traditional styles, with a highly trained baristas ready to pour. The Aghmashenebeli and Rustaveli locations have more than enough room to hang out and get some work done. The other locations are small and more about getting a to-go cup to enjoy the surroundings.

Luca Polare

Luca Polare's Aghmashenebeli location, a popular spot in the summertime

7. Moulin Electrique

Back in the day when your only choice was Prospero’s, these wonderful proprietors on Leselidze (now Kote Aphkhazi St.) made an investment in an espresso machine, thereby kicking off the Lavazza movement. Moulin Electrique has such a great old-fashioned feel to it, and the hidden little courtyard tucked away in the old town makes for a perfect escape from the tourist crowds and touts. They opened their second location at Fabrika as well, making it one of the better places to visit (don’t expect the best in customer service there though). They have a fantastic kitchen as well, so don’t be afraid to grab a meal here either.

8. ViceVersa

Really plush and cozy spot for your high-end coffee fans with an emphasis on the Italian styles of serving. Great customer service and with a small interior. It does feature a nice little outdoor streetside patio for those enjoying the summertime in Saburtalo and wanting to get off Pekini for a spell.

coffee in saburtalo

ViceVersa in Saburtalo, just behind the double Carrefour mayhem

9. Coffee LAB

The American answer to Double B and I imagine this place met many cheers after opening its location near the Peace Corps office. If only it were there back in my volunteering days. That said, it’s almost always packed with people eager to get their hands on modern mugs, V60s, and aeropresses. They also serve pretty amazing brownies. The interior has a lot of space to get work done (but the tables are often all full) and as the coffee shop is literally in a garden, the outdoor seating area is beautiful to boot. There’s a playground in the garden as well, so for those with kids you can let them roam about while catering to your legal addiction.

coffee in saburtalo

The second floor of the Coffee LAB

tbilisi coffee

The Saint Facetious coffee plantation beans are the best

10. Entrée

For those preferring a bit of French café elegance, Entrée fills that gap nicely. With a selection of amazing pastries and baguettes, Entrée tends to be the best place to get a light breakfast in town. The coffee isn’t to die for—just your regular Lavazza-type stuff—but it’s always a good option of seat-camping and reading. Like Luca Polare, they also serve some great ice cream and cakes.

I’ve only listed my favorite (and biggest) locations, but there are plenty more scattered on corners throughout town. The ones I’ve listed all have roomy interiors, enough so that you don’t feel guilty for hogging a seat while surfing the net or reading.

11. Coffeesta

This list would be incomplete without Coffeesta. Coffeesta is the native Georgian answer to Starbucks, and serves almost as the righteous Georgian shield against that independent coffee-killing machine. They seemed to have modeled a lot off of the good things Starbucks has, like frappucinos, a good-enough americano, local cultural elements, and the color green. For those who can’t get by without Starbucks, then pop in to one of Coffeesta’s many locations around town. Typically a great place to get your work done, especially at their Rustaveli location where they occupy something of a massive bunker underneath the old Soviet house of cinema. They also maintain a cozy corner on the top floor of the Galleria Mall at Freedom Square. Their location on Kote Aphkhazi Street is premium, but lacks a bathroom, so it’s only good for short engagements.

coffeesta

The Coffeesta next to Rustaveli metro is probably one of the best places to laptop camp in TBS

12. Marjanishvili 8 Coffee & Dining

A newer entry into this scene, Marjanishvili 8 feels reminiscent of a Viennese cafe, with its decorative, 19th century ceiling and faux marble counters, though the chairs do make a strange match. I visited the shop on recommendation from the comments and wasn't disappointed. The aeropress was a thicker-than-usual-Georgian-light-aeropress brew and the atmosphere was quiet and comfortable. Despite having table service, it's still definitely a great place for laptop diving and small meetings, with an interesting food menu on the side (I'll definitely be back for brunch to check out the appropriately hipster-fied Georgian food like the avocado chvishtari).

Am I missing anywhere? What’s your favorite place to grab a cup of coffee in Tbilisi?


Looking for something to read while having a cup? Check out my book of short stories (many taking place in Georgia) called Hunger, available here on Amazon. You can even read it on a free app from Kindle. I've also got an audiotour of Rustaveli here on VoiceMap.

Updated: Mar 14, 2020


Sololaki is one of the more interesting districts in Tbilisi, and perhaps my favorite one (probably because of the sheer number of bars that host interesting and original live music here). The area is bordered by Freedom Square, Leonidze, and Asatiani, on the sides, and on the bottom by Dadiani Street. The top slowly dissolves away into nothing as you go up hill and eventually you find yourself in fields, a cemetary, and a bizarre children's theme park (Mtatsminda). Fun note about that cemetary and field: once there was a metal festival there until a priest shut it down for being too close to the Orthodox burial ground.

11 Kikodze, building from 1914 by the Brother's Milov

Sololaki was the first district to grow past the original city walls, which would have been at Dadiani Street. Freedom Square itself is a relatively new invention, as before this was a river/canal with a bridge over it, and the river came from up Leonidze Street and then it followed Pushkin around the city walls to the river—you know, kind of like a moat… Past that bridge there was a small square called Firewood Square, where many of the residents would come up outside of the city gates and buy their firewood.

Sololaki

One of my favorite apartment buildings in Sololaki

The area was known in the old days for its beautiful greenery and gardens, and to water the gardens they needed to dig some canals, earning its name in Arabic, Sululakh, or “canal district”. The canals have long been buried over with the main one finally filled in in the 19th century when the Russians rebuilt much of the city after the Qajar destruction. After the Qajars destroyed everything, Sololaki became the preferred neighborhood for the rich folks of the city, and it was here that they tried to build the “Caucasian Paris”, complete with apartment blocks topped by mansard roofs and full of art nouveau flourishes (during this time, Aghmashenebeli Street in Chugureti underwent a similar renaissance).

Example Sololaki's typical art nouveau flair

Freedom Square

Where the St. George pillar is on Freedom Square, there was the opera house where Alexander Dumas used to hang out a lot, and where the city hall is now was once the firehouse. It’s an ironic thing too as the opera house met its end by a vicious fire, and too bad there wasn’t a fire crew around, oh wait… All that was left of the opera house were two big lion statues, which are now found in front of the city hall. The city hall was upgraded from its status as fire house and they added the clock tower at that time.

Freedom Square

Tbilisi's Freedom Square with the city grain silo on the hill in the background

After being known as Firewood Square and when it actually become a city square during the Russian rule, it was called Erevan Square, after the well-earned nickname of Ivan Paskevich, the general who had pommeled the Persians for much of modern-day Armenia and resided in Tbilisi. Later it became known as Freedom Square under the First Republic, then Beria Square, then Lenin Square where they placed a big statue of the Eternal Comrade, and finally Freedom Square, where they took down the statue and put up a column with Zurab Tsereteli's St. George Statue on a pillar, probably his only work that was gladly accepted by the giftee.

Freedom Square itself was later the site of a pretty historic heist. It was in this busy square that the bank heist that Stalin had masterminded took place. Led by his right hand man, Kamo, Stalin’s men lobbed some grenades at and commandeered a money-laden stage couch that was transferring newly printed and arrived money from the post office to the State Bank, resulting in 40 casualties and leaving 50 people injured. The Bolsheviks would later erect a statue to Kamo and post it in the adjacent Pushkin Square, but Stalin was a jealous mofo and had it removed as he tried to keep historians focused on only himself as the hero of the Revolution. "Masterminded" is also a generous word when the heist basically just involved lobbing bricks of dynamite and spraying down a crowd of people with automatic weapons. I suppose the real finesse involved smuggling the money out of Georgia and into Europe, where it was used to finance the machinations of the Bolsheviks once they were able to launder it (no easy task, considering all the major banks knew the serials of the banknotes... mastermind indeed!).


You can learn more about Freedom Square (and Rustaveli) on my audiotour on VoiceMap. Check it out here.

Dadiani Street

We’ll go down Dadiani Street. It’s fairly innocuous nowadays, but it used to be the center of expat life back in the 2000s and early 2010s. There was a tiny basement bar there called Salve, named after all the “salve” (“welcome” in Latin) signs that are known to adorn the district. The bar was known for its friendly status among alternatives and was devoid of the “kai bitchi” type that had once haunted the city’s streets, looking for easy lays and meaty shawarmas and who wouldn’t think twice about stabbing you over a girl. And so Salve was, in those days, pretty much the only place a Bohemian-type could go and hang out, and then people would move nearby and have house parties and the nights were never ending. The city was almost dead in those days: there was a general malaise and depression just after the war, and life seemed to have ground to a halt.

Not on Dadiani, but somewhere in Sololaki

Now both the malaise and the bar are gone, but the famous restaurant that people went to before getting drunk at Salve, Racha, is under renovations, so that will be nice when it opens up again. At the end of that street is a very beautiful Georgian style house on the corner, and then there’s the big German Schule, which many tourist guides like to call the “Caucasian Harry Potter House” for no clear reason except for its Gothic architecture.

Tabidze Street

Next up is Tabidze Street. Nearly 10 years ago the city planners had an excellent idea. They would close Tabidze to car traffic and make it pedestrian only, turning it into a cobblestone road envisioning higher-end bars, cafes, and clubs lining the street. It was a brilliant idea and it worked, making a most beautiful avenue of entertainment right off of Freedom Square. But then Georgians’ undying love for the automobile got the best of them and they inexplicably reopened the street to traffic, turning it from a once quiet, lazy afternoon walk to an aerobic feat of dodging cars. It’s basically an oblong parking lot now, gutting much of the business of the more popular bars like the once venerable live music venue Divan. There are a few hangers-on here, but for the most part the city had once put this street on a development pedestal and hacked it down with their great iron, car-shaped bludgeon.

The superior carless end of Tabidze, opposite from Freedom Square

Machabeli Street

This street is getting a relative amount of fame of late, as it seems bar after bar are opening their doors to the broken asphalt and concrete lined lane. I guess it’s filling in the space that Tabidze once held, but a lot of these bars cater to a more varied clientele and not just the city’s uber-rich. The metal bar, Creator, can be found here, as well as a few more relaxed hangouts. Before Creator and everything else though was a dive called Arsad, which means "nowhere" in Georgian, and it was hell trying to explain where exactly I was going or where someone should meet me if they hadn't known of the bar before.

"Where are you going tonight?" "Nowhere." "Well, let's go out."

"I am, I'm going to Nowhere."

"Dude, if you don't want to hang out, just tell me."

The premium attraction on Machabeli Street though is the Writer’s Union building, a grand example of “modernist” architecture, modern for the early 20th century, that is. Tbilisi modernism was a direct heir to art nouveau, so the former union halls have a lot of flowery flair. The Writer’s Union was originally built as the house of David Sarajishvili, a business mogul and head of the famous cognac (gruzinac, or brandy from Georgia, not from France) company that still reigns supreme on the shelves of local alco-stores today. When he passed, the building had already gained local fame as a monument of sorts, and when his wife decided to sell it in 1918, it caused an uproar. She must have smelled something on the wind though, as a few years later the Bolsheviks seized it and nationalized it, turning it into what it’s known as today: the Writer’s Union.

Writer's Union

The Writer's Union house, on the corner of Machabeli and Asatiani

A few notable Soviet writers lived there for a time, namely Maxim Gorky, while Vladimir Mayakovsky was known to stay there as well, perhaps while on visits to his hometown of Baghdati in the Georgian countryside. From the spacious courtyard (which now houses a fancy pants restaurant) you can see the sky, and perhaps make out a cloud worthy of the restaurant.

Leonidze Street

There are a couple of famous landmarks on Leonidze Street as well. Coming up from Freedom Square on the right, you’ll see a big bank building. The Tbilisi Mutual Credit Society was built in 1913 and the building now serves as the ground for the National Bank of Georgia. Not an overly interesting bank itself, except in the knowledge that it was the first banking building in Tbilisi. It was later nationalized and made into the Central Bank of Georgia, a purpose it still serves today.

Detail of the National Bank and its money titans holding up Georgia's economy

bottom of page